Monday, September 26, 2011

The Mysterious 'Brother Elephants'

My current state of unemployment helped to deem this an exploration day!  (Cue enthusiastic 'Woo!')  I did a little research in an attempt to find a bookstore that has an English section...because that's what I do when I have nothing on my agenda.  I did find a few reviews for a large bookstore boasting a substantial English section, so I decided to make that a priority.  Since I really had a lot of time to kill I tacked on a visit to the supposedly popular hangout for the young-set, the Ximen shopping district.  I was immediately overwhelmed at the amount of other people meandering and the cute clothes.  Oh, my--the clothes!!  One day I will have 'Asian money', and I will use this 'Asian money' on these clothes.  I walked around for a little bit looking for a place to hang out and read, preferably while drinking a hot coffee-like beverage...naturally.  I wasn't having much luck with the combination of the two; lots of coffee shops without seating--lots of seating without coffee.  When I began to give up hope and search for the MRT station to head back to the small, three-block area that I'm actually familiar with I happened upon the mecca...Starbucks!  I had every intent to hold off on the 'Bucks until at least a week went by, but I was desperate and it was starting to rain!  I wasn't left with another choice.  I entered and was immediately thrown into a zone of comfort.  I sat to read for about an hour, and since I only had a tall drink I felt greedy sitting there for even that long.  I have become one of 'those people' with all of this out-of-town business.  I'm now the one that orders one beverage and sits around long after it's finished.  On the plus side though, I have begun to drink coffee slower.  It has proved difficult, but I'm pleased with my progress.

Still having books on the brain, I de-MRT-ed a few stops early at 'Taipei City Hall' station to stalk my prey.  After a little wandering around, because google.com/maps only uses Chinese characters when one is on a network based in a Chinese province--annoyingly so--I thought I found the building I was looking for.  I wandered around a little but it looked like just another shopping mall...no literature!  I was going to explore more, but my stomach began to yell at me.  I was losing strength!  I bypassed all the store fronts where I could have cheated and eaten a burger and/or McFlurry and/or sandwich and/or anything else I am familiar with--this time I actually had a genuine Taiwan restaurant in mind.  This morning when I was headed to the 7-11 to try the coffee drink that had the potential to replace the 'Eiskaffe' (or, 'juice-box coffee' drink) of Prague I happened upon a back-alley food joint that intrigued me; this place became my late-afternoon destination.  I braved the empty stomach and worked my way back to the food joint with no name.  Upon arrival though, I found that it was closed.  Blurgh!  However, I saw that it did, in fact, have a name.  'Elton John'.  Fine, don't believe me.  Tomorrow when I eat lunch there I shall take a photo to prove it.  Amused, but defeated I headed back to the hostel for a snack with a new game-plan to hit the night market and participate in some dumpling consumption.  At least I saw a nice rainbow on my walk back to the hostel, though the picture doesn't quite show it's glory:


After spending the afternoon catching up on emails and doing a bit of research on the Taipei professional baseball team, the Brother Elephants (it turns out tickets are harder to purchase than previously imagined), I was invited to join two other hostel guests on a jaunt to the night market.  I had a nice time getting to know a few other people, a woman from the Bay Area (as it happens) and a man from Poland, and of course trying a bit of new food.  Some of it was extremely spicy, some of it was a juicy explosion--but I plan on going back for seconds, either way!

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Confusion. All over my face.

The representation of Major League Baseball teams in Taipei is outstanding.  Everywhere I look there is a Yankees purse, a Braves hat, a Tigers t-shirt, even an Oakland Athletics sweatshirt.  Yes, that's right.  My very own team was represented by a store in one of the many malls (we'll get to that); the poster was of a cheerful gentlemen rooting for the home team--my home team.  I was so excited to see such a display that I got out my camera to take a photo, but then decided to not to when all three sales associates stared me down.  Next time I plan on being more stealth.  While doing my research on Taiwan before arriving it was brought to my attention via Wikipedia that this island has baseball!  I totally forgot about the Asian obsession with baseball...how could I have overlooked this?!  Not only do they have baseball, but they rejoice in the MLB.  It is comforting every time I see it.  While in Prague I found myself feeling a kinship whenever I heard an American accent; in Taipei I want to blow past the white tourist and head for the Taiwanese man wearing the Mets hat and introduce myself.  It's a whole new kind of camaraderie.  And I don't even care about the Mets!

Let's talk about the amount of shopping malls in this city.  Outrageous.  There are rival malls that stand across the street; staring each other down; challenging each other to a duel over customers.  The stores within the shopping malls are even more competitive!  Really, do you need Gucci and Prada facing off across the way, with Chanel around the corner?  Isn't there a mall with a store that normal people can shop at?  Every mall is full of the top names in fashion, and my curiosity about the amount of actual sales to be had gets the better of me when walking by.  But alas, just as I do when I'm at home, I continue walking by--longingly looking in the window, marveling at how cute the jackets are.  Many of these shopping malls crowd around the base of 'Taipei 101', which appears to me to be the ritzy downtown area of the city.  The allure of 'Taipei 101' is confusing, because I have doubts that it was until recently the tallest building in the world; down-graded when Dubai opened their terrifying tall hotel.  The past two days I wandered down to the area surrounding 'Taipei 101' and both days I looked up with a furrowed brow.  It really just doesn't look that tall.  And my confusion is heightened when I think about the fact that all the buildings surrounding it are very short...shouldn't this make the skyscraper look taller?  Confusion.


While we're on the topic of confusion, allow me to switch to the arcades.  At the night market three things are plentiful: dumplings,  strange smells and arcades.  The dumplings (and all their glory) need no explanation, I'm close to determining the exact source of the nostril stinging smell (as previously mentioned), but the arcades make no sense.  Taipei has chosen to devote whole arcades to the most frustrating game out there--the claw game.  There are not one, but two arcades in the night market filled entirely with different versions of the same infuriating game!  Doesn't anyone else see how truly vexing this game is?!  Why would you want to enter an arena where that is all you play?!  I just don't understand.

On a different note entirely, I had my first visit to the grocery store this evening.  The store is called "Wellcome", which is friendly but, well, wrong.  I breezed past the obvious error, heading for the produce section--surprising, I know.  After five weeks of consuming meat and every form of potato imaginable in Prague, I realize that maybe that wasn't the wisest of choices and should probably add a little balance to my diet.  There were things in that section that I've never seen in my life!  They looked like hybrids of fruits, but one can never be too sure...it also didn't help that the names of these "fruits" were in Chinese characters.  I stuck to the apples.  Safe bet.  For those wondering, outside the produce section I sucessfully located the peanut butter (phew!), and some delicious bread to put it on.  These groceries will be used on the evenings when I don't frequent the place that my travel mates have named "Dumplings", because it serves dumplings.  For the low price of NT$45 (US$1.47) I had five dumplings and a bowl of some sort of salad/coleslaw, something or other.  The food here is outrageously cheap.  And!  Get this--I ate all five dumplings and the lettuce-whatever with chopsticks.  The whole thing.  Chopsticks.  Success.

As has probably been surmised by this point Taipei has been confusing, to say the least.  I walk around feeling overstimulated all the time.  There are signs everywhere, but they all look the same only with different background colors.  The scooters are loud and feel like a constant stampede; it is also not uncommon to see families of four all riding on the same scooter...adding more to the confusion factor.  But through all of this I'm having such a good time making observations and watching how the other half lives, so to speak.  Taipei may be very confusing, but is also full of countless amusements.  Right down to their overzealous, white-gloved parking attendants.  Yes sir, I see you and I'm stopping.  There's no need to blow that whistle right in my face.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

24-Hours' Worth of Observations on Taipei

1.  With the purchase of bottled water at 7-11 you receive a free straw.

This is considerate, except for the fact that not all straws are long enough for all bottles of water.  I opted out of using the complimentary straw because I didn't want to walk down the street fishing within my bottle for the straw (or luxury) every time I felt parched.  Though I appreciated the gesture I could only see it going wrong--ending with me looking like a foolish tourist.  Again.

2.  Tissues and toilet paper are interchangeable.

And they both serve as napkins, too!  In fact, there is barely a differentiating factor between the two of them except for the size of the square.  Both products are manufactured in a plastic travel-like container.  Both products are readily available in public restrooms.  Both products are soft to the touch.  I suppose they'd like to leave the deciding factor up to you...base it off of mood, if you will.

3.  Mopeds act as both vehicles and pedestrians.

Yes, it is as dangerous as it sounds.  And it completely wipes away all chance of highway hypnosis (or whatever one calls it while walking); a true pedestrian must always be alert and ready.  The interesting thing about these mopeds is that they will cross the street in the normal flow of traffic and then enter the pedestrian crossing to make an immediate turn, should their destination call for that.  And while we're on the topic, let's talk about the amount of mopeds in this city...it's outrageous!  The moped parking lots look like a tangle of metal and loud noises--very overwhelming.  Oh, also they travel in packs.  So, look out for that.

4.  The night markets are full of delightful foods, and not all are smelly.

Though, let's be serious, some of the food smells rank.  There's one particular scent so pungent it literally stings my nostrils...I have to barrel through the crowds to get out of it's smoldering range.  On the other hand, thus far I have thoroughly enjoyed the (delightful) dumplings, (fantastic) fried sweet potatoes, and the (phenomenal) pancakes with your choice of filling--obviously I chose chocolate.  There were many other intriguing dishes served up by the many (many, many) food carts, but not all are deemed totally safe by 'Lindsay Standards'.  Example: I got extremely excited by the prospect of fried potatoes (naturally), and when I inquired about them I was warned that they may, or may not, be 'fried octopus balls'.  No, thank you!  Word to the wise: Eat with caution.

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

French Toast. Coffee. Books.

Today is my last day in Prague, and it will consist of a lot of wandering.  I began the day by saying goodbye to three friends that booked flights out a day before I did.  They asked me what I would do for a day by myself, but I'm not concerned about it in the least.  I'm a Boggs, and am thus a firm, firm believer in 'alone time'.  I'll figure out a way to occupy myself.  Since I don't know when I'll be back in this glorious city I have decided to do a tour of all of my favorite places...beginning with breakfast and filtered coffee at the Globe Bookstore and Cafe.  I love this place because it has my two passions: books and food.  In one place.  Glorious?  You betcha.

It also helped that they have wi-fi so that I could book the next leg of my worldly adventures.  Are you ready for this announcement?  Taipei, Taiwan.  I booked my flight to Asia for a week from tomorrow, at which point I will harass English schools until someone hires me.  Yes, it is as random as it sounds but it is a thought I have been chewing on for a couple weeks.  And the point of this whole experience was an adventure, was it not?  And, riddle me this--what is Asia if not the ultimate adventure?  All adventures have obstacles, and the following are mine:

1.  As most people who have spent any time in my company know, I am a firm believer in personal space.  I thrive on it.  I cherish it.  I just don't care to be touched.  Period.  A self-explanatory obstacle, promising to be the most challenging of my adult life.

2.  To date, I haven't had any luck in learning a new language.  A year of Spanish in seventh grade started this trend, when I mentally checked out while we learned how to talk about the weather.  I fear I don't remember exactly, but I'm fairly certain that this occurred at the end of September.  Which means that I had eight months of hanging out, not knowing what was happening...though the cooks at the restaurant where I worked for years taught me any dirty words that might be necessary in life.  This attempt was followed by four years of German, which gave me the ability to converse about the days of the week, and the unfortunate prospect of viewing roadkill ("strassenpizza").  With these two lost opportunities under my belt I can only imagine what a year surrounded by Mandarin might bring.  Perhaps this is my chance to learn what I can and shock those not expecting a semi-blonde American girl, with the white, white heritage of Dutch-Scot to be able to carry a conversation in Chinese.

3.  Before Thanksgiving of last year I entered, what I like to call, an 'Adventurous Eating Phase'.  The enthusiasm for said phase comes and goes, but it has been there beneath the surface all along.  My concern about this phase in Taiwan is that I won't always know what's hanging in the window of the restaurants I pass.  When expressing this concern to my friend, Maddie (who will be one of my roommates when I arrive), she finished my thought with urgency, "I already googled it, and they don't eat dog in Taiwan!!"  Phew!  Doesn't mean I won't have to be careful.

These are the three things that come to mind immediately about any Taiwanese challenges I may have.  The bottom line is as follows: I am out for an adventure--something outside my comfort zone--where I will be able to gain teaching experience.  Asia provides that...among other growing experiences.  This may be random, but it promises to be awesome too.

I will miss Prague though.  I have fallen in love with this city, and feel that I may be able to return here some day.  It has a way of casting it's spell of comfort and warmth on those who visit.  The tourist wonders are just as promising as the guidebooks suggest, and things off the well-trodden path of visitors have a way of sucking you in as well.  It feels like so long ago that I met up with a group of strangers to have dinner at the all-mysterious beer garden.  Every time we returned there to have a plate of kielbasa and play a game of cards and/or Foosball we talked about that first Saturday night, and what we remember most.  I am so utterly fortunate to have had an experience such as this, and to have made friends with the people with whom I made friends.  I have not regretted this experience for a second, and will miss everyone and this city terribly.

Prague Castle, on the first night I arrived.

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Vary, Karlovy Vary

A wrench was thrown in our epic post-certification travel plans.  We took our reputation as 'European Nomads' a little too lackadaisically, and planned our Berlin adventures all wrong.  After a last minute decision about wanting to spend more than two nights there (which is all we would have), we opted to check out the town of Karlovy Vary, about two hours to the west of Prague.  The main draw of Karlovy Vary varies according to age--the older traveler visits for the hot springs that are rumored to cure any gastric issues one may have, the younger traveler (such as three girls in their early twenties) visits because it is the town where Daniel Craig competed in a high stakes poker game as seen in the James Bond film 'Casino Royale'.  The town was majestic, and our hostel was...curious...to say the least.  The map placed 'Pension Village' far, far out of the center of town.  The map was right.  It was a thirty minute walk--probably double that when there are bags involved...add an extra ten minutes when one has a bag with a bum wheel (*cough*me*cough*).  The cab we took (best decision of the day) dropped us off in front of a building that had one door marked 'Pension Village' and one door leading to a home improvement-type store; check-in was at the home improvement store.  We decided that the man's wife is probably in charge of the hostel, and she had either left town, or left him and he hadn't gained confidence with the hostel-keeping business yet.  In any case, we had beds to sleep in and after taking the night bus from Budapest to Prague, and then the bus from Prague to Karlovy Vary an hour later, this was the most exciting thing ever.

The journey back to the city center was made by foot once our luggage was dropped off (and secured) as we now had food as our motivational source for a destination.  The interesting thing about the town is that it looked like it belonged in a theme park...there were layers and layers of old, beautiful buildings!  Hidden away in the hills, any lack of space did not dissuade the founders from creating a wonderland of resorts around the 'magic water', as we took to calling it.


None of us quite comprehended the epic-ness of the 'magic' water, and made fun of all the souvenir stands' collection of tacky, tourist mugs.  It wasn't until after dinner and exploration that we happened upon the mecca of the hot springs and understood why everyone was walking around with the half-sized mugs.  The way the older population of tourists flocked to the water, filling and re-filling their tiny mugs was a sport in itself.  We decided we must try this water!  Having purchased our own tacky miniature mugs we headed toward the mecca ("Wait guys, if we're going to drink some 'magic' water, I'm going to have to pee first").


Let me just say this about the 'magic' water: It was foul.  It had a severe taste of metal and salt.  It did not taste good.  I suggest all of those who visit to avoid it...the aftertaste is worse than I could have thought possible.  Here's another interesting fact about drinking the 'magic' hot springs water--it does not taste better when one turns it into tea.  It becomes worse than one could ever believe possible.  Just ask Meghan (English Breakfast) and Maddie (Peppermint), and me who foolishly tried them both.

We arrived back in Prague at about 18.00 (yes, that 24 hour clock just happened) and headed to the pre-chosen hostel, where we would be meeting a fourth member for our coming two days of adventures.  On our way to the Zanzibar Cafe for supper, we were marveling at how we feel like we're home when on the Prague Metro.  The words were still in the air when the Metro cops hopped on the train one station before our restaurant stop, and they flashed their badges in my face.  I whipped out my one-way ticket with confidence (my student pass had expired whilst I was traipsing around Budapest), and the cop leaned over and asked what I thought was a strangely irrelevant question: "How old are you?"  I answered honestly, tacking on a question mark to the end to convey my confusion, "Twenty-four...?"  Evidently in my ticket purchasing I had unintentionally punched the button for 'Youth, 12 and under'...which I am quite clearly not.  The fine was 800kc, or about $40.  What a bummer.  Welcome back to Prague, indeed.

The next few days are going to be a full tour of internet coffee shops, and potential life plans.  I know, I know.  Get jealous.  There will be lots of brainstorming to be had.

Friday, September 9, 2011

Getting a Little Bit 'Hungary'


The website was correct.  Tiger Tim’s Hostel was hard to spot off of the road, but eventually we located the correct Indian clothing shop entrance, performed the correct doorbell ringing trick, and bypassed the sketchy looking elevator, instead lugging our bags up the three flights of stairs to reach our respective bunk beds.  The brilliant thing about Tiger Tim’s is that there is an actual Tim, and he answers to it when we call him ‘Tiger Tim’…I don’t think he minds.  However, he did say that he would only explain to us the story behind the nickname if we got him drunk enough—alas, we opted out of the nightly organized pub-crawls.  Thus leaving the nickname mystery behind with the man.
Our first day in the Hungarian capital of Budapest was complete with the obvious choices: marketplace, hike to the famous monument, a palace and a lunch of Indian food, followed by a dinner of Thai…obviously.  The marketplace was more dangerous than the steep cliffs we climbed up in flip-flops…too many colorful, beautiful things!  I had to keep telling myself that I have a lot of luggage as it is, I mustn’t add more weight to my pile o’ crap!  As it turns out, marketplaces are a terrible place to look, but not purchase.  I’m not going to lie—I did buy something, but I assure you it was small…and not necessarily for me, which means that it doesn’t count in the long run.
Yesterday, our second day of Hungarian delight was filled with a little more history, and a few more awkward encounters.  To start off the day, we went to the museum that is horrifyingly called the ‘House of Terror’.  The subject of said museum is to honor the memory of those individuals who suffered in the aftermath of World War II through the Communist era.  Each room had a different subject, and came with a long detailed history to explain to us visitors exactly what happened, when and why; the museum did a fantastic job of educating visitors with a thorough history.  I learned a lot about Hungarian politics and events of post-war, through the late 1960s, and a little beyond that.  I have added to my (long, long) mental list of books to buy a history of Budapest and/or Hungary to fill in any gaps that the museum may have left behind in the timeline.



Having spent the morning in a somber atmosphere (despite the guard that made it his official duty to jump out at me from every corner on the second floor—successfully scaring me at least four times…though I did make him jump once, albeit unintentionally, and he looked at me and said, “That’s one point for you.”) we decided the rest of the day had to be spent in the beautiful sunlight and having happy, laughing times.  Wandering up the impressive street that leads to ‘Heroes’ Square’ and proving to me why Budapest touts the nickname ‘the Paris of the East’ we decided which apartments our hypothetical ‘sugar daddy’s’ would be purchasing for us, based on the balconies that were the most beautiful.  When we finally reached ‘Heroes’ Square’ we decided that we wanted a photo on the horses like we watched the other people doing.  As it turned out the horses were much, much taller than they looked from a distance.  While we mapped out our foot placement for climbing, Maddie and I were suddenly swarmed by a fairly large group of ten-year-old Hungarian boys.  They began their attempts at wooing the Americans by shouting out catch phrases that could be accompanied by hand gestures: ‘hang loose’, ‘rock and roll’, ‘West Coast’.  Their determination to be friends didn’t seem to alert their chaperones in the least, who watched with amusement from a distance—making no attempts to usher their charges away from us.  



Eventually we ditched the boys and wandered onward, past the Square into a park, and back around again heading toward the Jewish Quarter.  The long walk was both exhausting, as well as delightful.  We inspected the buildings and stopped by any shops that caught our eye—sometimes debating over what items were a necessary addition to our collections, and what weren’t.  In the interest of an honest blog I will say that though I didn’t turn down everything that caught my eye, I did turn down quite a bit—some items that I’m still thinking about more than twenty-four hours later.
Today was our day to check out of the hostel and figure out our next move.  We had dreams of a bus to Krakow, but the city of Krakow and the city of Prague aren’t exactly on smooth transporting terms…thus shutting down our efforts.  We have purchased bus tickets back to the Czech Republic where we will be visiting the town of Karlovy Vary (about three hours to the west of Prague).  The main draw for this town, you ask?  Why it’s where they filmed the James Bond film, ‘Casino Royale’, of course!  Remember the scenes that were supposedly taking place in Montenegro?  Well, they were actually in Karlovy Vary.  I will have photos in one days’ time to prove it.
On the way to the bus station we had to take our second journey on the Budapest Metro...we had successfully avoided it for the whole visit, except for transport to and from the bus stop.  Here's a fun fact--Budapest has the second oldest metro system in the world, behind only London.  I found this a fun fact indeed, until the train pulled up and I realized that the city hadn't felt any need to replace their original trains since they opened.  I couldn't master a photo that successfully captured the ancient-ness of the train, but trust me.  What's even more concerning than the rickety train itself is the way the doors slam shut, reminiscent of a guillotine.  I booked it with my suitcase to avoid even a slight threat of those doors closing on me.  Thanks Budapest, but I don't need anything amputated...maybe next time.

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

TEFL Worldwide: Four Weeks, Come and Gone


The four weeks of certification came to a conclusion on Friday—four intense, exhausting, delightful weeks.  After a constant state of sleep deprivation due to a non-stop stream of lesson plans it feels oddly freeing to be able to walk around Prague without a nagging feeling that I’m neglecting my duties.  My final teaching week was my best, with a strong lesson on Wednesday, followed by a goofy lesson on Friday.  The goofy lesson involved an entertaining game of Pictionary—as it turns out, the Czechs are not as familiar with Pictionary as Americans.  The concept of ‘silent drawing’ and ‘no labeling pictures’ was lost on them, but I was thoroughly pleased with the students’ obedience involving the ‘only guess with English words’ rule—as it turns out the Czechs are a rather competitive bunch and all I had to do to catch their attention was threaten to give the other team a point if I heard any language other than English.  My final review was a boost in the right direction, after four weeks of up and down ratings, I was complimented on my rapport with the class.  What the monitor didn’t know was how badly I wanted to jump into the game of Pictionary—evidently I hid it well.
            On Friday night the school held a small graduation ceremony for our class—a class in which all students passed.  It involved toasts, short speeches and lots of goofy pictures.  When it came time to move the night to a different location it felt weird to say goodbye to all of the people whom I had learned to teach alongside.  But along with all the goodbye hugs we promised to visit each other—South Korea, England, Russia, Poland, Taiwan, Japan, China, etc.  Here’s our class, and all it’s glory:


            We had one last (official) weekend in Prague with new friends, and no immediate responsibilities, thus a few more explorations were scheduled.  On Saturday we made it our primary goal to purchase photos on the Charles Bridge—mission success.  With two new friends, and an old pal, we climbed to the top of one of the Charles Bridge towers, wandered across the bridge (again) purchasing photos as we went, had a lyric writing session/photo shoot at the Lennon Wall and then topped off the day with yet another paddle boat extravaganza.  Here’s our badass Lennon Wall photo—I’m the goon who couldn’t wipe the smile off her face.


            It was decided early on in the course that a dance party after the graduation ceremony on Friday was not going to be enough of a celebration/reward for making it through TEFL certification—a trip was in order.  Which leads me to my current state—relaxing on a large bus, with ‘juice box’ coffee, snack mix and a killer soundtrack (obviously), bound for Budapest, Hungary.  Unfortunately the movie playing on the official bus entertainment system is “Scooby-Doo”, starring the stellar acting of Freddie Prinze Jr., which would have destroyed my joy-buzz had the journey not officially begun with “17 Again”.  (The ride is seven and a half hours long, so the entertainment decider has plenty of time to redeem him or herself with the next selection.)  The stay in Budapest has been decided on three nights, at which point the players (Meghan, Maddie and I) will have decided on the following destination—right now the nominees are Berlin and Krakow, though I believe Berlin is currently in the lead.